Fulbright: tequesquitengo

Haven't had a chance to update on my activities lately, so this post will be a weird combination of disjointed ideas.

Lucha Libre:

First up, Lucha Libre, or Mexican Wrestling! Outside of the Arena there were tons of stands selling Lucha Libre masks and people were buying them like crazy. I should have bought one but I thought I would be a poser since I didn't know any of the fighters. I wanted to pick a fighter that I could identify with, not just any joe schmo, or jose schmo as it would be here.

The whole event was hilarious. I thought it was going to be little kids, but it was full grown men screaming at the wrestlers. I was under the impression that everyone knew it was fake, but enjoyed pretending it wasn't and yelling. Since I went on Día de los Muertos, all the fights were themed Dead versus Living. They would come out in teams of three and do tag team fighting Dead versus Living. Each of the wrestlers had a name and a persona. My favorite was Maximo whose persona was a homosexual wrestler. His signature move was kissing the opponent, which rendered the opponent defeated. Everyone yelled like crazy when he kissed the other wrestler. Mexico definitely has a certain level of homophobia, but at Lucha Libre everyone seemed to think it was funny. Maximo also had a minion which was a midget dressed up as a bird. Everyone loved the minion and apparently he is really famous. At one point the object was the fight was the minion and the Dead and the Living were fighting over him and pulling him in different directions. I thought he might rip apart, but luckily he didn´t. Definitely would not be PC in the US. I'm told there is another wrestler with a gay persona called La Fresa Salvaje, or the Wild Strawberry. The name alone is amazing.

Día de los Muertos

I wanted to write more on Día de los Muertos, but I think this is going to be it. Basically, Mexicans think about death much differently than Americans do. Americans are afraid of death. Mexicans are afraid too, to a certain extent, but it is much less. Death, instead, is viewed as a natural process and progression of life. In the US, the second something changes from alive to dead, it is scary and gross. In Mexico, they celebrate their dead. Día de los Muertos is about honoring all those who are no longer with us physically, but who are still important to us mentally. It is said that people die two times. Once, when the person physically dies. And secondly, the last time that a living person says that person's name. The way you celebrate these people is by remembering them and making offerings, or ofrendas (see below). For the ofrenda, you put everything that the person you are remembering liked. If they like carrot cake, you make them carrot cake. Almost every ofrenda has beer for good measure.

Here is a really good short film that shows the spirit of Día de los Muertos:

Tequesquitengo:

The most stressful thing about Tequesquitengo is pronouncing it. Tequesquitengo is like the Chelan of Mexico City. It is about 2 hours away and a bunch of rich chilangos (people from Mexico City) have houses there. I got invited to go and stay at the house of a super rich family. They had 2 full time employees at their guest house. Think about that for a second. Guest house. Not house house. It was a great chance to get out of the Concrete Jungle that is Mexico City. Saw stars for the first time in what felt like months. Look at the view from this freaking house:

The only downside, was that Tequesquitengo had a plague of no-see ums. Not sure what they are called, but they are bugs that bite you that are the size of fruit flies. You can´t see them at all. But damn do they leave their mark. I had 63 bites the first day.

We also went water skiing. Got up on my third try, which I feel like is pretty good since my water skiing career is one time that was over 10 years ago.

Bullfighting:
Went to a bullfight at the arena which is like 4 blocks from my house. Bullfights are quite the social event and definitely a place to be seen. It´s less fancy that a horse race, but the same kind of feel with everyone wearing hats. This was the first traditional bullfight I have been to. You may remember my post of Spanish bullfigthing on horses: http://leroyinargentina.blogspot.mx/2012/08/spanish-bull-fighting.html.

During the bullfight, I realized I don´t know shit about bullfighting. Yes, the premise is simple, wave red cape, bull charges, move cape, stab with sword, bull dies. But in practice there are all these weird formalities and stages involved. Here are the stages I identified:
1) Bull runs out, runs a few laps to get tired with the help of helper guys on the permiter of the ring who wave a pink flag and then hide behind a wooden barricade.
2) After the bull has done a few laps, the helper guys will actually go out into the ring a little bit and have the bull charge them, and they move out of the way. During this stage the capes are pink not red. At some point during this the lead matador guy will come out and take a few runs from the bull.
3) After the bull has done this for a little while, out come the yellow horses. This part I had never seen before and I thought it was SO bizarre. The horses march out with these yellow skirt things. The bull gets to freaking ram these horses, and while the bull is pushing against the horse, the guy on top of the horse is stabbing the bull in the back. He is called the picador, or picker. The idea is to get the bull tired and bleeding a little bit.

4) The horses march out, and the next stage is stabbing little flags with spears, or banderitas, in the back of the bull. The assistants bullfighters will run at the bull with two spears, juke the bull out at the last second, and stab two banderitas in the bull´s back. The ideal spot is centered on the bulls back and just below the neck. If they do it well, everyone cheers. If it is to the side, everyone heckles or is silent.
5) After 3 rounds of banderitas have left 6 banderitas in the bulls back, it´s time for the matador. It's easy to tell who the matador is because his cape is red, not pink. Red for kill. This is the stage with the most showmanship. The matador takes advantage of the tired and bleeding bull to do fancy dance moves while juking the bull. If the matador doesn't move his feet when the bull runs by, everyone says "Olé!." The best move that a matador can do is have the bull run by, and then circle back around and go back the other way without the matador moving his feet. The matadores would also do the cape behind their back or touch the bulls head. They were extremely close to the bull, but the bull was so tired that it worked. I also noticed that the bull doesn't see the matador as the threat. The bull was focusing exclusively on the red cape. Sometimes the matador would stand between the bull and the cape and the bull's head would follow the cape behind the matador's body. Like, "get out of my way, I'm trying to catch this cape."
6) After the showmanship is over and the bull is sufficiently exhausted, the matador gets his sword out. When the bull runs by, the matador stabs the bull in the back down through the bull's rib cage and ideally into the bulls heart. He doesn't always succeed as sometimes he hits bone. When this happens the crowd gets impatient. The crowd wants a clean kill with minimal suffering (kind of hypocritical given the entire activity of bullfighting in the first place). If the matador successfully put the sword in, the assitants run out and they have the bull stagger around in circles a few more times to let the sword do its work slicing and dicing the insides of the bull with each step. Eventually the bull collapses. A guy with a small knife runs out and hits the bull in the back of the neck in a particular part, and the bull is instantly killed. It's crazy how instant it is. It's like an off-switch.
7) Two horses attached to a cart come out. The bulls horns are attached to cart and the body is dragged out of the arena.